I love the use of "localvore" and "global positioning system" in this Willamette Week review of Lucier:

One group of Portland diners that'll be tsk-tsking at Lucier: locavores, who are sure to wonder about Chureau's heavy use of air-freight ingredients, from East Coast seafood to Japanese Wagyu beef (offered at $25 an ounce) and calendar-defying dishes. In June, for example, Lucier featured a special menu based on heirloom tomatoes and, later in the month, one spotlighting black mission figs (both menus were $100)--both barely in season in California then, let alone Oregon. As for me, I like a restaurant menu to serve as a kind of global positioning system, telling me where I'm at and what month I'm in. Lucier fails that test.